Thursday 16 August 2012

The last weeks in Lofoten

After one month of guiding work in July, I have had the last two weeks reserved for vacation. After a really intense year of traveling, adventures, work and hard training, of course the first thing that happened when I could relax was that I catched a cold. So the first week in August I was sick, lying in bed, reflecting upon life and, got back in to writing mode and watched a few really good movies. I guess I really needed the time of to be with my self and see what I really need in life and to calibrate the direction and thought patterns that are guiding my grand ride. Because life is just a ride, right?

It wasn´t before the beginning of this week that I was able to go outdoors and do stuff. I have always wanted to do the Presten roof boulder problem so I started working the moves out for that one. It´s not harder than 7a+, but it´s my antagonist in every kind of way as it´s steep (it´s a roof, right) and long. But yesterday I got to put it together on my second go, and now I feel like I’m ready to leave Lofoten for this time. In between the bouldering sessions, Ale and myself went out to do the north ridge of Vågakallen - The biggest climb of her life and a good short roping day for me.
Midnight in Henningsvaer

Now the next stop is Kebnekaise for some easy alpine climbing and short rope training. It will also be a good well-needed training session for the adventures to come in September.
It has been another awesome summer in Lofoten with great people and rock and plenty of long mountain runs and Yoga sessions. This place will always stay close to my heart (as we say in Swedish), but now it´s time to move again!  

The climbing café in Henningsvaer, the place to be in Lofoten and home to Nord Norsk Klatterskole

Breakfast on the pier 

On our way to the north ridge of Vågakallen 

Ale on the crux pitch

The legendary jump

The view from the top 

My dear girl friend Ale

On the roof on our descent of the normal route 

Ale bouldering

Morgan Sahlén on the Presten roof

Myself on Presten roof 

And on the 6c arête   

Below it´s shown how to send the Presten Roof (it´s not me)... 

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